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Description
Cartier Santos Dumont Extra Plate GM Cal. Frédérique Piguet 21 Ref. 96054 from 1970sCartier Santos Dumont Extra Plate GM Ref. 96054 Louis Cartier Collection, Cal. Frdrique Piguet 21 (1970s) An elegant expression of Cartiers refined watchmaking during the 1970s, this Cartier Santos Dumont Extra Plate GM from the Louis Cartier Collection embodies the timeless sophistication that defines the Santos line. Crafted in solid 18k yellow gold and powered by the ultra thin Frdrique Piguet calibre 21, this example represents one of the most
Cartier Santos-Dumont Extra Plate GM Ref. 96054 – Louis Cartier Collection, Cal. Frédérique Piguet 21 (1970s)
An elegant expression of Cartier’s refined watchmaking during the 1970s, this Cartier Santos-Dumont Extra Plate GM from the Louis Cartier Collection embodies the timeless sophistication that defines the Santos line. Crafted in solid 18k yellow gold and powered by the ultra-thin Frédérique Piguet calibre 21, this example represents one of the most elegant interpretations of the Santos-Dumont ever produced.
The reference 96054 belongs to the Extra Plate series, celebrated for its remarkably slim profile and refined proportions, while the Grand Model (GM) case offers a slightly larger presence on the wrist without compromising the elegance that characterizes the design.
Fresh Cartier Service & Warranty
This watch has just undergone a full service at Cartier Switzerland in November 2025, including a light professional polish by Cartier to restore its original brilliance while preserving its sharp vintage character.
It is accompanied by:
- Cartier service paperwork
- Cartier service pouch
- 2-year international Cartier warranty (valid until November 2027)
The result is a watch that presents beautifully and performs exactly as it should—ready to be worn and enjoyed with complete peace of mind.
The Santos-Dumont Legacy
Originally created in 1904 for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos is widely considered one of the first purpose-built wristwatches in history. Its square case, exposed screws, and geometric proportions have become enduring signatures of Cartier design.
The Extra Plate variants introduced during the 1970s represent some of the most refined executions of the model. By pairing the Santos case with an ultra-thin movement, Cartier created a watch that wears with exceptional elegance and discretion.
This example is part of the Louis Cartier Collection, a line reserved for Cartier’s most traditional and refined dress watches.
Case – 18k Yellow Gold GM
The solid 18k yellow gold case measures 27 x 36mm, offering the desirable Grand Model size that wears beautifully on the wrist.
The case remains in amazing vintage condition, appearing largely unpolished with strong edges and well-defined proportions. Only the bezel has received a light professional polish by Cartier during the recent service, while the rest of the case retains its crisp vintage character.
The classic Santos-Dumont architecture—with its rounded square bezel secured by visible screws—remains one of the most recognizable silhouettes in watch design.
Dial – Rare “Swiss Only” Dial
One of the most attractive features of this example is its beautifully preserved “Swiss only” dial.
Free from cracks and exceptionally well preserved, the dial retains its clean and balanced aesthetic with classic Roman numerals and elegant blued hands. The subtle “Swiss” signature at the bottom of the dial—without the later “Swiss Made” designation—is a characteristic detail appreciated by collectors.
The dial’s condition is outstanding and contributes greatly to the overall charm of the watch.
Movement – Frédérique Piguet Calibre 21
Inside beats the Frédérique Piguet Calibre 21, one of the most respected ultra-thin manual-wound movements of its era.
Renowned for its refinement and reliability, this movement enabled Cartier to achieve the iconic Extra Plate profile. The movement has been freshly serviced by Cartier and is keeping excellent time, ensuring both performance and long-term reliability.
Details & Condition
This Santos-Dumont remains in excellent vintage condition and benefits from its recent Cartier service.
Notable features include:
- Original sapphire crystal in very good condition
- Blue sapphire cabochon crown
- Original Cartier vermeil pin buckle
- Handmade ultra-thin black leather strap (Belgium), perfectly matching the slim profile
Key Details
- Model: Cartier Santos-Dumont Extra Plate GM
- Reference: 96054
- Collection: Louis Cartier Collection
- Era: 1970s
- Case Size: 27 x 36mm
- Material: 18k Yellow Gold
- Dial: Original “Swiss Only” Dial, Crack-Free
- Crystal: Original Sapphire Crystal
- Crown: Blue Sapphire Cabochon
- Movement: Frédérique Piguet Calibre 21, Manual Wound
- Service: Full Cartier Service – November 2025 (Cartier Switzerland)
- Warranty: 2-Year International Cartier Warranty
- Strap: Handmade Ultra-Thin Black Leather (Belgium)
- Buckle: Original Cartier Vermeil Pin Buckle
Why This Watch?
The Cartier Santos-Dumont Extra Plate represents one of the purest expressions of Cartier’s design philosophy: elegance, proportion, and mechanical refinement.
With its desirable GM size, ultra-thin Frédérique Piguet movement, beautifully preserved “Swiss only” dial, and fresh Cartier service with international warranty, this example offers both collector appeal and turnkey usability.
Rarely encountered in such condition, this Santos-Dumont Extra Plate stands as a refined collector’s piece and a timeless symbol of Cartier’s watchmaking heritage.
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Exchange/Return Notes
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